It's kinda a matter of what you have the patience for. It goes throgh the years but skips mine. The 449 and 443 are not interconnected in any way so I would say it is a coincidence that you had both set in a matter of days. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere! The solenoid is mounted on a bracket on the back of the fuel tank. The problem is, I have searched thread after thread, and no one has posted the part for the solenoid, price, or instructions to fix on a 2007 Tahoe.
I can't do anything until I find it. So if I try and test voltage at the plug I get no voltage. I can't stand it anymore. Then just go under and plug the new one in and the problem is solved. Tape over the light actually was quite comforting. Found the vent valve with a plug with a white and pink wire. Get under the vehicle after putting on the parking brake and if you a little hefty, then removing the spare tire on the some vehicles will give you lots more room.
Now one code that comes up is usually P0449, along with maybe a warning to check the gas cap to see if it is on tight. I'm going to call my buddy at the dealership tommorrow, but wodered if anyone else knew. You didn't say how you found batt voltage at the purge. What the heck is going???!!! All right, excuse my prejudice but I have worked for both since tech school, and you have what's called a recheck at one place and a comeback at the other. Not being a Chevy guy, I dont know where the canister is located, but if you smoke it, I guarantee you will see where the leak is, probably in one of the rear fender well areas, that is where the car engineers like to stash them. Something may indeed be going wrong with the computer or that one connection I haven't been able to check.
I know the purge solenoid is working because before I reconnected all the tubing I plugged the thing back in, cranked up the engine, and put my finger over the end. So I have a good power lead but a bad common. All you have to do is press the release tab on the bracket and slide the valve off, disconnect the wiring harness, and cut the rubber hose between the solenoid and the evap line. From what i'm reading they are two seperate issues. I even bought a scan code reader now just for kicks.
I've only got 57K on the truck. I read that the cap has a pressure value in it and am thinking of changing it to a new one. Does anyone have the part number I need to look for? It seems like you have a good understanding of the circuits and what you need to have. So as a service to you, they get you a guaranteed part and put it in place. Interestingly, after that when I started the truck and pulled away, the transmission shifting seemed to be abnormal - it was jerking hard between shifts. After the first click the tank is full enough.
From threads on other year models, it is like a 20-30min install. Want even more diagnostic training? Now i must ask if it was a hard fault, memory code, or enhanced code. You might be best off in this case to explain where you are at and what you have done to someone with a tech-2 and get it diagnosed before throwing more money at it. Being a solenoid that requires some amperage to push I wouldn't check the B+ side with a volt meter, I would use a light. Just found this forum and it seems like there is good advice to be had.
Dannyl answered 4 years ago There's confusion surrounding the code the way I looked it up at engine codes. I will probably try this first, but just need to find the damn thing. It seems like you have a good understanding of the circuits and what you need to have. From threads on other year models, it is like a 20-30min install. But, what could I say, right? I'm not liking where this is leading.
Connect a test lamp between the voltage supply circuit terminal A and the control circuit terminal B. This time, ask to speak to a supervisor or manager, introduce yourself and let them know you are squinting one eye at them and have one hand on your belt. After reset of code it came back on. Compare estimates I suppose, or look up the pinpoint tests and see if you want to tackle it. Ok, wife called me an told me check engine light came on this morning on her way to work. Being a solenoid that requires some amperage to push I wouldn't check the B+ side with a volt meter, I would use a light. If they had to personally guarantee the work but were subject to a batch of part issues, the shop could be always looking bad and having no recourse.
The dealer may know about the duality and have service bulletins or a procedure at the ready. By the way, this is an '07 Tahoe with about 70,000 miles on it Thanks i have the same code right now. Looking at the diagrams the only thing that the two have in common is the pcm where the ground signal comes from. Your not supposed to do that. You need the vent valve not the purge valve. You could check the ground circuit with the active circuit voltage drop with both sides pcm and purge disconnected to check that circuit too. By the way, this is an '07 Tahoe with about 70,000 miles on it Thanks Ok, I get it, but no one is still answering my main question.