Id have to look it up in the garage but its kinda late. My head is still at C-Tech and they are waiting for me to tell them how deep I want my valve depths. I think that is a rough range to be in and once you are there keep your springs within X percent of each other if that makes since. When ordering Protrusion-Height Gages, specify dial indicator. I just got my 12V shortblock together and I have way more piston protrusion than I guessed I would have. Drop in springs my ass! It should very soon appear when you do all this, that things keep on changing as you go from one measurement to another. It had only seen ~4200 free rev, wouldn't load that high and it had signs of scuffing on the walls.
Not ever piston ring has the same outlay or material. And no nothing is bent, engine worked fine. I'm open to any tips or suggestions on tools and technique. I wanted a tight fit for better sealing. The pistons are already coated and balanced, otherwise I would have just milled them down. You both will thank me later.
This has been frustrating as every time I take a measurement I seem to get a different reading. Buy the measuring tool for the springs and order some shims and do it right. Head Height The distance from the bottom of a screw head to its extreme highest point. Just got off the phone with my machinist. Guess i'll just cross my fingers and hope for the best! It reads in inches and mm and you cane tare it to zero which is handy.
It is mostly a street truck so. Which is a better way to go, sinking the valves to. I also didnt want to change the bowl cc's. I tried to borrow a bore gauge but couldn't track one down. I'm trying to figure out if a 603. You are looking for a situation usually in one cylinder where things do not make sense.
The top ring gap should always be larger them the second. Only needed to confirm that they were in the range of the 2 hole gasket that originally came with the car. Drop in springs my ass! Didn't have to shim a single one. I actually gotta give it to Zach. With the twins and cnc ported head hopefully I'll have some decent airflow to cool it off and control my egt's and expansion somewhat. Got your tappet cover and pump gear on yesterday, nice stuff! I talked to Zach last night and he suggested that I do exactly what I already did.
I would just cut the pistons down to make the protrusions all the same but they are already balanced and coated. Now you are ready to get started! But all depends on how you drive you might be okay. Am I over complicating this and worrying too much? The old gasket is a two notch, so does this match up correctly?? Place the dial indicator into the bridge and set it to measure the height of the block surface. You have to recheck things over and over. Just take that rod out put it with another good rod on a pin and check the big end to see if the faces were parallel. It had only seen ~4200 free rev, wouldn't load that high and it had signs of scuffing on the walls.
. When i did my springs and shimmed them all i was with in. Then make sure the valves are sunk down the. You have a finger on each end of the part of the piston over the piston pin ends, rock things a few times take some measurements and let er roll on to the next cylinder. On a good note, the 3.
Piston to wall has nothing to do with sealing the cylinder. Btw this is a full time street truck. Continue to measure until satisfied. Hmm, you could mill the piston tops down a little as well, raising the bowl and adding compression, if your build benefits from that sort of thing. Zach had some good ideas when I was working on my setup. Then flip one rod and recheck.
I have read on here enough to know that I need to measure the piston's protrusion before assuming what head gasket to get. As soon as it gets heat in the piston its going to start hitting the walls. If you want to step it up some come with magnetic bases that will help you get a more accurate reading. His paper work says he honed it for. I'm in the same boat with the pistons, don't want to have to machine them. Too tight and the ring will break.
What tools are you using to measure the cylinder bore diameter? When i did my springs and shimmed them all i was with in. If one piston on one end of the piston pin toward one end of the block tends to be high and the other end of the piston over the other end of the piston pin tends to be low you are probably looking at a bent rod. Drop in springs my ass! The measurements for the available head gaskets I found here: From the data I have seen the following gaskets for piston protrusion: 1 hole: 0. He will also have better handwriting. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. However - on the majority I am getting a reading of 77 mm. My numbers are as follows: Piston 1:.